Practices for playing a draw: the complete routine, from the practice range to the course

Before we begin: what these exercises should produce

A "controlled" draw is not a ball that spins excessively to the left. It's a trajectory that starts slightly to the right (for a right-handed player) and gently curves back towards the target.

• Priority #1: the club path (in-to-out).
• Priority #2: a face that is not open in relation to this path.
• Priority #3: centered contact, otherwise the curvature becomes unstable.

Useful equipment for training

Nothing sophisticated is needed for these exercises; in fact, that's one of their advantages.

• 2 alignment sticks (or 2 clubs placed on the ground) for starting and path markers.
• A few tees for practicing a stable face.
• A 7-iron to start with, more forgiving than a driver or a wood.
• Ideally, a covered or outdoor practice area with visible targets to measure dispersion.

If you want to invest in some suitable small training equipment, you'll find it at Belvédère Golf Proshop.

The 6 exercises, from the practice area to the course

Exercise 1: The starting lane (start control on the right)

Aim : learn to start the ball a little to the right without pushing it or slicing it.

Place two sticks on the ground: one on the target line, the other two to three degrees to the right. Your goal: to get the ball into this "right-hand corridor". Don't try to make it spin yet; just find the starting point.

Reference point: If it veers too far to the right, the face is too open at impact. If it veers straight but turns, you might be compensating with your hands.

How many balls: 10 to 15 balls, checking the start ball by ball rather than chaining them together without looking.

Exercise 2: Type around 4 o'clock (in-to-out path without forcing)

Aim : create a natural in-in-out path. Imagine a clock on the ground: the target is at 12 o'clock, you want to feel the club move towards 4 o'clock (right-handed).

Take 5 practice swings without a ball, finishing around 4 o'clock. Then 10 shots at 50% speed: same feeling. Maintain a balanced finish: if you "fall" over, you're forcing it.

To avoid: exaggerating to the point of locking the hips or "throwing" the arms, the path should remain a consequence of the body, not an isolated arm movement.

Exercise 3: The ball above the tee (stable face)

Aim : Stabilize the face at impact, especially with the driver. Many players create the path, but the face remains open: the result is a slice or a push.

Place a tee 5 cm in front of your ball, on the target line. Objective: to hit the ball and graze/knock off the tee after impact. Hit 8 balls at medium speed.

What this develops is a "through" shot, not a "sliced" shot. It's often the exercise that most quickly unlocks the potential of players who have been slicing for a long time.

Exercise 4: Clean 1/2 swing draw (pedagogical progression)

Aim : Learn the draw without getting lost in a full swing. You will create the curve in control, then increase the amplitude.

Start with a half-swing (arms horizontal). Goal: a slight and repeatable curve. Do 3 sets of 6 balls.

Only then should you move to a three-quarter swing. If the ball over-spins, return to a half-swing: this is your reset. This back-and-forth between a reduced and full swing is normal; it's part of the learning process, not a failure.

Exercise 5: Stick outside (visual anti-slice)

Aim : prevent the out-to-in movement that causes slice/pull.

Place a stick on the ground slightly outside your swing line (ball side). The goal is to avoid touching the stick during the downswing. Hit 10 balls with a 7-iron.

Indicator: If you touch the stick, you'll come back "over". If you avoid it but push, adjust the face (not by twisting your hands, but via the grip and setup).

Exercise 6: Draw in 3 targets (transfer to the path)

Aim : Transform the exercise into a real strategy. You will aim at a target, but choose a starting point, then let the ball come back.

• Final target: the flag (or a marker on the practice range).
• Starting point: 5 to 10 meters to the right (right-handed).
• Curvature zone: You accept a gentle curve, not a big hook.

Make 9 shots: 3 shots «small draw», 3 shots «standard draw», 3 shots «controlled draw» at reduced speed.

Adapt the exercises to your level

These 6 exercises work for all levels, but the slider to adjust changes depending on your experience.

• Beginner / high index: Focus solely on drills 1 and 2, using a 7-iron at a reduced speed (60-70%). Don't focus on the curve yet: first master a consistent ball launch.
• Intermediate player: Complete the 6 exercises in order, respecting the indicated repetitions. This is the fitness level for which this routine is designed.
• Experienced player / low handicap: Reduce the number of balls per exercise but add a dispersion constraint (target 15 meters wide instead of 40) and integrate exercise 6 from the warm-up.

If you're a complete beginner or want personalized feedback on your swing, coaching with a professional remains the fastest way to correct a club path or an unstable clubface; this is precisely one of the points addressed in private lessons at the Belvedere Golf School.

20-minute routine: your typical workout

• 5 min: starting lane (exercise 1)
• 5 min: In-to-out path (exercise 2)
• 5 min: half-swing draw (exercise 4)
• 5 min: Draw in 3 targets (exercise 6)

Find the practical information for Belvedere Golf practice to organize your next session.

The 5 mistakes that sabotage your exercises

1. Wanting to "spin" the ball with your hands : correct by the path and the face, not by a flick of the wrist.
2. Aiming too far to the right and pushing the ball : work on controlled starts, not exaggeration.
3. Perform a "hooked" draw« : reduce the amplitude, return to the half-swing.
4. Change 3 settings at once : only one focus per series (path OR face OR contact).
5. Never test on the course : use "draw in 3 targets" to transfer.

At what point should the draw be introduced on the course?

Many golfers wait until they have a "perfect" draw on the driving range before daring to try it on the course. In reality, the right approach is the opposite: test it early, but only in low-stakes situations. A driving range will never fully replicate the pressure of a real tee shot, and it is precisely this pressure that reveals whether your draw is truly stable or simply acquired under comfortable conditions.

First, choose a clear hole, without any direct obstacles in the shot path, to attempt your first draw in a real game situation. If the hole curves to the left (dogleg left), it's even more effective: the draw naturally follows the shape of the fairway and gives you a real strategic advantage rather than just a stylistic exercise. Note the results of your first 3 or 4 attempts on the course: starting direction, resulting curve, and feel at impact.

Over time, this field test becomes a reliable indicator: a draw that holds up under pressure, on a real tee, with the stakes of a scorecard, is a truly mastered draw. A draw that only works on the practice range, without pressure or consequences, remains a useful technical exercise but not yet a playing tool.